Capo Martino

Capo Martino
Collio, northeastern Italy

Over the last few months I have been trying to find wines that attain a certain level of regional identity. Every traditional winemaker will agree that the heart and soul of a bottle of wine will always be found in the vineyard, deeming the only ethical approach to winemaking is to have the bravery to resist “winemaking.” Where is the soul in a label when the dream is always found in the bottle? That brings me to today’s wine.

Capo Martino is the creation of Silvio Jermann, one of Europe’s most forward thinking winemakers. His winery resides in the tiny appellation of Collio, an area that covers a small pocket in northeastern Italy. Wines that guarantee Collio’s status must be harvested exclusively from the hillside vineyards. Jermann’s lifelong vision was to create a wine providing homage to his family’s long history in the region. So in 1991 he purchased a tiny hillside parcel planted with the local varietals; Picolit, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Tocai Friuliano and Pinot Bianco. This vineyard, named Capo Martino, is the only parcel in which he still uses the ancient farming methods invented by the Romans recalling the areas rich wine history. Jermann brought Antinori’s SuperTuscan philosophy to white wine with his distinctive blending and was one of few producers producing a “super white” with any sort of depth. Consider it the Ornellaia of Collio.

Capo Martino has always garnered attention as one of the top five white wines produced in Italy. It is a true vin du garde displaying a profound combination richness and picquant minerality drawing Meursault-like comparisons. He extends his growing season by allowing his fruit to hang an additional two weeks essentially shriveling the grapes to raisins recalling ancient Roman viticultural tradition. The finished bottling is a perfect expressionist brushstroke of Capo Martino soil. Texturally this wine melts on the palate but then a jolt of acidity gives a certain tang of added life. The flavors mold white flowers, anise, honey and tropical fruit showing off its exotic and ripe qualities.